The wax you are using is lifting under the presence of water. Strip it and use mineral oil from here on out. This is likely one of the harder varieties of soapstones which doesn't do as well with wax as with just oil.

Who installed your soapstone? If it wasn‘t a soapstone specialist, like M. Teixeira, it’s likely your soapstone wasn’t sanded to the right grit.

Our soapstone, Belvedere, a very hard variety, has never been blotchy after oiling or waxing. We found we much preferred mineral oil, over wax. It’s easier to apply, and we prefer the appearance of the stone, afterwards. Also, oil is easier to remove, should you want to bring the stone back closer to its original, lighter color.

Actually, we haven‘t oiled at all in over four years. After a few months, the stone oxidized to a shade we love.

When you put a glass of water (or, any cold drink) on the soapstone, does it leave a ring on the counter? If so, then the sanding grit is surely the problem.

There is an installer fabricator, known as Florida Joseph, who used to own a soapstone store. He would periodically travel up and down the East coast, fixing soapstone counters in the homes of Garden Web (which Houzz bought) posters, who had issues like yours. A few months ago, he posted here that he had closed his store, and moved to PA (if I’m recalling properly), and was devoting his time to repairing soapstone in homes, like he used to. I’ll try to locate his info.

@Aglitter, sorry to hear that. Joshua sounded so upbeat in his last post, seemingly excited about semi retiring, and focusing on home visits to fix problems.

Perhaps he’ll see this thread, and reach out to the OP.

Thank you so much for the responses. It is new soapstone. I originally used mineral oil and it did the same thing, so I’m not sure that moisture under the wax is the culprit?

I was also worried about it being finished to the wrong “grit.” My fabricator was not very responsive to my inquiry about the blotchy appearance

It's not cost-effective for most fabricators of soapstone to refinish the top. They may have to send it out to be done if they don't have the equipment. In my area of north Texas, the cost would have been $400 per slab to refinish, and that's prior to fabrication. It becomes more complicated with more precautions needed after the slab has been installed. It could have been waxed before you got it. Try stripping it entirely with acetone (test an inconspicuous area first). Then re-apply only oil. Unless your fabricator is really experienced with finishes on soapstone, he may be clueless what to tell you. The soapstone will eventually oxidize to a darker color if that is what you are after. It's not necessary to keep oil or wax or anything else on top of the soapstone like it would be for granite or marble.

Thanks, I will do this!

“It's not necessary to keep oil or wax or anything else on top of the soapstone like it would be for granite or marble.”

I think what back2work is saying, is that unlike granite and marble, soapstone doesn’t need to be protected by a sealer of any kind. Oiling and waxing is not necessary. The top of the stone will oxidize on its own, thereby getting darker.

Whether that will solve the blotchy problem...🤷🏻‍♀️

Since your fabricator has been unresponsive (shame on him, but that’s very telling about his expertise), I suggest you contact M. Teixeira, and explain your situation. These guys are real pros, extremely patient and helpful. And, like Joshua, they live and breathe soapstone. M. Teixeira

And, btw, they are impeccably clean. Our kitchen was spotless after install.

I actually did contact them and they were very helpful. I stripped everything off again and going to be a little more patient with a mineral wax application protocol :). Will report back

My soapstone counters also have an unattractive blotchy appearance. What type of acetone do you use to strip the counters and where do you buy it?

Any update from Cassie or ireeperuvt? We just had soapstone installed and the installors waxed it. It looks uniformly blotchy, but we don't know if the wax was applied incorrectly or insufficiently buffed, if the stone is just like that, or if we should strip it and apply oil. Any advice?

"This is not cheap nor is it clean. You'll need to protect your hinges and door slides to keep dust out and to prevent damage. You'll need to block off your home's air vents to keep the ventilation system clean. You'll need to make sure the contractor has an adequate extraction method to keep dust down and a system to cover up cabinetry and spaces outside of the kitchen that could be affected."

A Festool 80 grit abrasive on a Festool Rotex 150 on grind mode connected to the Festool vacuum will make short dry dustless work of any soapstone with no additional dust protection. Operator face mask and ear protection are all that's necessary.

I'd charge about $750.00 for this 2-hour job. No need to strip first; that wax layer is coming off.

Hi Cassie - just wondering if you had any updates as to how your soapstone progressed? I’m having the same issues with the blotchiness with my new soapstone

Be aware that soapstone can reach up to a 4.5 on the Mohs hardness scale. Rough grit finishing is not appropriate nor is as simple a process for harder soapstones as the description given above for softer soapstones. If you have a harder soapstone and are dealing with surface imperfections, physical refinishing isn't the only answer. I have just had Beleza soapstone installed and do not plan to oil or wax it at all. The surface is gorgeous and consistent as is. The finish is much smoother than 80 grit which is what you want for a harder stone. The rough 80 grit finishes are best for soapstones in the range of 3 or 3.5 on the Mohs scale.

How will you deal with the inevitable cooking oil or other marks?

Water evaporates quickly, and greasy substances can be removed from soapstone the same as they would from most other countertop surfaces with a degreasing agent and warm water.

Hi Cassie, I came across your post from a few years ago about your soapstone being blotchy with mineral oil application. I’m having a similar issue. I saw you mentioned you were advised to have patience with a mineral wax application protocol. I’ve been trying to do the same and apply mineral oil weekly. I have been doing it once a week for four weeks. It’s certainly getting better but still blotchy. Curious how long it took for yours to finally adsorb more evenly?

Yes, because it is non porous it adsorbs vs absorbs but the adhering process is uneven. It will be blotchy not even 24 hours after I apply the oil and during that time we do not use fhe countertops at all so nothing is interfering with or wearing away the solution. My counters look exactly as Cassie’s did in the photos above

This is the nature of this beast; I doubt you'll topically treat your way out of it, short of abrasion.

Welllll, there are always enhancing sealants like miracle 511 seal and enhance. I have used it on a few different varieties of soapstone and it has kept the counters evenly dark for years without any need to oil or wax. It does take a couple of applications to achieve even darkening. It does not create a weird layer or flaking or haze or any of the other things that some speculate occurs with sealing soapstone. I did try the sealant on samples prior to the first application, except in the newest kitchen since I hand sanded the counters myself I knew that I could sand off the sealant if necessary, it really is just darkening the very top layer of nooks and crannies.