Recessing the cooktop into the counter gives a nice smooth surface but makes it almost impossible to replace the cooktop because the cutout needs to match the appliance to the millimeter. A cooktop with trim that overlaps the counter is a little more forgiving if the appliance needs to be replaced.

Are you replacing your countertop at the same time you are replacing your cooktop?

I went with trim as it provides a little extra protection around the edges when sliding heavy pans - something I try to avoid but still happens occasionally. I know someone that cracked their induction cooktop edge - an expensive mistake. Most cooktops aren't perfectly recessed into the counter or even with the counter.

I have a Wolf induction cooktop with trim and the trim hasn't scratched at all. I was a little worried about that as well.

I like our bosch model that has trim running along the top and bottom edges, but my mother advised me that this style was preferential against another brand (I forget now, maybe KA?) that had trim around all four sides - because how the heck do you wipe away crumbs off your cooktop? You would forever be wiping into the trim edge and never getting out every crumb.

I have a Thermador with trim on all 4 sides. I wipe and pick up crumbs with a damp towel and I haven't have any problem with cleaning so far. As previously mentioned, I want the trim as extra protection. I have read in this forum that someone chipped their cooktop and the showroom cooktop was also chipped when I ordered mine.

I prefer trimmed because I see shattered cooktops where the user hit the edge of the tempered class cooktop with a pot and shatters the glass. The trim protects the edges.

I have a Bosch with trim at the bottom and top, but not on the sides. Most of the crumbs actually get under the glass on the sides - I've used a toothpick to scrape out the gunk. I agree that it's easier to wipe off the cooktop without the trim on the sides (not that I think it would be difficult with the trim), but again, that's how stuff gets under the glass edge. You don't even notice it until you get out that toothpick to clean it! We have no chips on the side edges.

SJHockeyfan we probably have the same cooktop. You know you can put clear silicone all down the sides (between the cooktop and countertop) and that avoids the crumb issue you're talking about!

H202, good idea - I hadn't thought of it!

I don't know about the Bosch cooktops, but Miele specifically advises not to use any kind of sealant because doing so could result in damage to the cooktop if it ever has to be removed for servicing.

Silicone can just be pulled off, can't it?

Yes or easily sliced with a utility knife or single edged razor blade.

While I love the trimless look- I worry that the fabricator of your counter needs to be a real stud to get it "right". To get it so that it's even all the way around, and that the recess is perfect depth, etc - I think that it's "possible" but not all that likely. So, while I'd like my top to disappear and create a smooth plane when it's not in use, I just don't think I can trust someone to do my counters to that tolerance level.

Add to that the issue with the exposed edge being vulnerable to some chips and cracks and I'll take the trim.

I was initially disappointed that my fabricator didn't flush mount my Miele, but after reading this and other threads, I'm glad they didn't.

Jannicone, what you're describing is flush-mount, not trimless. An installation can be trimless and NOT flush-mounted.

SJHockeyfan, In the case of the Miele, the trimless version must be flush mounted. That's the brand we're leaning towards and based on my own tolerance or lack thereof, we are also leaning towards trimmed.

I have Bosch's most basic induction cooktop, a model that I think is no longer made. It is just a sheet of black glass that lies right on my quartz countertop. No metal edging of any kind, which was the look I wanted. We are moderately careful; a household of two adults, and I am the only one who uses the cooktop. I'm very comfortable with it and it seems extremely sturdy. It cooks marvelously. We've been using it two years now without concerns. But if I had kids using the cooktop, I would probably want metal edging.

I still think if you flush mount you will inevitably have a tiny gap between the countertop and glass that things will get stuck in - eew! I like the metal trim for the protection on mine - very easy to clean and no where for anything to get stuck!

Wow we literally just decided on the wolf cooktop without trim today because we like the flush look. We had planned to put silicone to avoid crumbs. However, I did not realize that the edge of the cooktop is more prone to chipping this way. Would love to hear from others who have installed without trim to hear re: their experience.

I went the wolf without trim and have had no issues or concerns about chipping. I have had it 9 months. I have a very modern kitchen and love the sleek look. I did not flush mount as I wanted to minimize the opening as I expect to replace it several years down the road when full surface induction advances in functionality and declines significantly in price.

The installation manuals I've read say not to use silicone sealant on trimmed cooktops, for the reason of not being able to get the cooktop out of the hole. Meaning that the sealant acts as a glue between the trim and the counter top. On flush mount units, the say to use silicone to fill in the gap between the cooktop and the edge of your counter cutout. So ok to use silicone to fill the gap, but not ok to use under a trimmed edge - i.e. gluing down the cooktop to the top of the counter. I don't have practical experience with this however. I'm still doing my reading and looking for a induction cooktop maker/model.

Even a surface mounted induction cooktop sealed with silicone can be a project to release by cutting through the silicone due to the size of the edge overlap. And once released the silicone will have to be cleaned off both the counter and the induction unit (if repaired) before resealing.

Thin neoprene rubber tape used as a cushion for mounting automotive trim will be more convenient in the long run. 3M produces a few thicknesses, and rolls are available from auto parts stores catering to the body shop trade.

One can then invert the induction unit on a suitable pad, apply the tape sticky side down onto the underside of the induction unit's glass edge. Trim the tape to the edge. Then revert the induction unit and settle it into the counter cut-out. Adjustment of position is still possible before using the manufacturer's tie-down scheme.

Note that certain Electrolux units should not be sealed around the edges because doing so would block their ventilation.

kas

If I were to use flush mounting, I would insert o-ring material (available in different diameters in long lengths) into the gap between induction unit and stone so that topping off with silicone flush to the surface would limit the silicone depth to only a few millimeters. Removal would then only require slicing through the silicone along the glass and stone edges, then pulling it out along with the o-ring material.

great idea limiting the depth of silicone sealant in the crack/gap.

You know what - I'll live with having to clean out the few crumbs that get under the untrimmed glass on the sides!!

I'm on my second Jenn Air trimless induction cooktop. Both have slivers of glass cracking off of the edges and corners. Will buy with trim next time.

I know this is an old thread, but it still interested me as I am faced with getting a new induction hob AGAIN.

My first induction hob (gorenje) received a blow from the heavy steel handle of a knife in a knife block that fell sideways towards the hob and one of the knives was long enough to just take a 1cm chip away. That said it carried on functioning for 8 years with no other issues. However, I was doing my house up and decided to get a new one as my 8 year old one with the chip was looking a little old. How i wished I had just kept it, as yesterday my husband went to get a pan out from an upper cupboard to the side and a plastic! water bottle dropped out and hit the edge of the glass and caused a chip. I thought I would carry on using it like my previous one, but within 1 hour of use the entire corner has cracked away and it is no longer usable.

So my next hob is definitely going to be with a steel edge as I have come to the conclusion that although they look much nicer without it, I can't afford to keep replacing it for tiny chips and knocks. It isn't just the cost of the hob, it is the electrician/kitchen fitter you need to fit it.

My 2nd one was an AEG and lasted 18 months before the knock, within 2 year warranty, but again beware the glass (which is 95% of the thing) is not covered under warranty.