typical citrus. The leaves are functional. Check for insects

There are no insects unless they are invisible to the naked eye. Been looking for them. Could it be that it's too cold for the plant? Somebody told me that in different forum

Soil looks dry, what is your watering schedule? I doubt temperature is a factor, what temp is it kept at?

Id say once a week. Usually I stick my finger in and if it feels dry I pour at least 250-300ml of water. The temperature is around 18-21 ° Celsius. I am afraid that it could be this CCDV virus however I never heard of it in my country

The only time i've ever had difformed leaves with my Meyer, is when I over fertilized. What is your fertilizer regimen and how often do you fertilize?

What are you using as a grow medium/soil? Homemade?

What about fertilizing? With what? How often? NPK %s? When last?

Does the pot have a drain hole?

Something I wrote about watering practices:

Water When the Top Inch or Two of Soil is Dry?

I don't think so. Most growers unfamiliar with how water behaves in container media are prone to repeating the title mantra. But let's look at some facts. A saturated or partially saturated medium is limiting in a number of ways.

Roots need an ample supply of oxygen in order that roots can function normally. Saturated soil surrounding roots limits oxygen required to drive root function, thereby impairing root efficiency and possibly setting the stage for any of a number of fungal pathogens that thrive in anaerobic (airless) conditions.

Soil saturation limits gas exchange, so waste gases like methane and CO2 in the root zone are less able to leave the soil, also limiting root function

Soil saturation kills the fine roots that do the lion's share of work involving water uptake and nutrient distribution. When this occurs, chemical messengers tell plant central injury to the root system has occurred. Top growth stops immediately, because root growth always precedes top growth – the top will not grow if the roots cannot support the growth with water/nutrients. The plant is then forced to regenerate dead roots, using energy which otherwise would have been devoted to additional top growth, keeping the plant's systems orderly, keeping the plant wearing a 'healthy glow', and improving the plant's ability to defend itself. In short, the wasted energy would have kept the plant looking/ growing better, and healthier.

If a pot is 10” deep, the top 2” can feel completely dry to the touch, even while the bottom 6” is 100 saturated. That means 60% of the medium would be fighting you tooth and nail for control over the plant's vitality …… and this is the point at which you should water again? Does that sound reasonable? We don't care even a whit if the top 2" of the soil are dry. Roots there are largely plumbing and anchorage, with essentially none of the fine almost microscopic roots that do the lion's share of the plant's heavy lifting.

You can easily detect moisture levels (by using a 'tell') in the bottom inch or two of soil where it counts most. Let me know if you're unfamiliar with the term 'tell'.

Al